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1961-1962-1963-1964-1965-1966-1967
Ford Econoline Master Cylinder Upgrade
We all know that a single reservoir brake master cylinder is unsafe. When it fails (or runs dry), there is no backup. That's why they haven't been put in cars or trucks since 1966 models.

Here lies the dilemma with older Econolines. Dual reservoir master cylinders (tandem) were a stock item in 1967 only and have become almost impossible to find. If found, it is probably in need of a repair kit (RAYBESTOS MK512) or even sleeving. Once brought up to its original condition, it is still not comparable to what modern brake systems are today.

Econoline brake master cylinders (RAYBESTOS MC36067) are also very unique because they mount using through-bolts perpendicular to the cylinder and incorporate the pivot point for the brake pedal. This means you can't just bolt anything under your floorboard.

After quite a bit of research, measuring, engineering, and high-tech manufacturing techniques, I have developed a very heavy-duty solution that utilizes modern braking technology and is safer than original equipment.

SEE BOTTOM OF PAGE TO ORDER

Click each image to view larger.

1

MASTER CYLINDER COMPARISON:
    ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT:
  • Cast iron with side mounting holes
  • 1" Diameter piston
  • 1) Brake fluid reservoir
  • No internal residual pressure valves
  • Includes pivot point for brake pedal
    WILWOOD TANDEM W/ REMOTE RESERVOIRS:
  • Die-cast aluminum with end mounting holes
  • 1" Diameter piston
  • 2) 4.1 Ounce remote brake fluid reservoirs
  • 2) Removable internal residual pressure valves
  • 2) Integrated bleeder screws
  • More information

2


CONVERSION BRACKET:

The conversion bracket bolts in place of the original master cylinder. It provides a pivot point for the brake pedal and a mounting surface for the new master cylinder. It accomplishes this by moving the master cylinder approximately 8" towards the rear of the vehicle.

A longer, adjustable actuator rod connects everything together.

The emergency brake still works and is not affected.

No welding is required.


3

WELDING

THICKNESS
CONSTRUCTION:

The conversion bracket is constructed from 3/8" thick cold rolled steel that has been precision cut using CNC water-jet technology. It has been designed with interlocking components so that all stress is placed on the steel and not on the welds. The cross tubes are 1/4" heavy wall DOM tubing. The mounting point for the brake pedal is made from 1" diameter round stock that has been turned on a lathe. It locks into the side plates, has a bronze sleeve bushing, and an integrated grease fitting. The whole assembly has been professionally welded and in a nutshell has been over-engineered to make for a bullet-proof component.


4


ALSO INCLUDED:

Everything needed to do the conversion is included except for the master cylinder and brake lines. An adjustable brake-actuator rod-extender (#9 shown below) with a bronze bearing heim-joint connects the brake pedal to the new master cylinder. It is attached at the pedal using a grade-8 nut and bolt. The original brake pedal inserts into the end of the conversion bracket using a new c-clip and bronze thrust washer. The master cylinder mounts to the conversion bracket using 2 grade-8 nuts and bolts.

A new brake pedal return spring (22lb. pull) is included to help bring the pedal back up to it's original position.


5


NEW LOCATION:

The conversion bracket was designed in a way that allows for the sway bar and emergency brake to still be used without modifications. You will need to come up with your own brake lines and way to actuate the brake light. This can be done using the old pressure switch and some T-fittings or something like the SSBC A0730 proportioning valve.

The new master cylinder moves backward on the vehicle and occupies the empty area behind where the original master cylinder was located. This area is quite large. This DIAGRAM details the position of the master cylinder mounting point of the conversion bracket. It might be possible to squeeze a brake booster in this space.

Master cylinder hole spacing is 2.25" vertical.


6

INSTALLATION:

First off, any brake work should ONLY be performed by persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of brake systems. If in doubt, have a professional do the work.

Doing the conversion has been made as simple as possible by including all the components you need except for the new brake master and new brake lines. The brake master can be purchased online. Click Here. The brake lines can be found at your local parts house. You'll need lines with 3/16 tube inverted flare fittings (shown at left). A low cost tubing bender is recommended if not needed.


7

If your Econoline has a front disk brake conversion, you will need to remove the front residual valve on the master cylinder. Instructions included with the master cylinder show how to do this.

Bolt the master cylinder onto the conversion bracket. Use the included grade 8 hardware. Do not use any other nuts and bolts you may have laying around. Especially if they are the low grade type found at places like Home Depot.


8

DIAGRAM
Before mounting the bracket, create your brake lines. It is much easier to do while out of the vehicle. The lines in the photo to the left were bent to allow clearance for a sway bar. Brake lines are less complicated if no proportioning valve or sway bar is present.

Threaded mounting holes (1/4-20) for a SSBC A0730 proportioning valve are already in the conversion bracket. 1/4" Spacers will be needed so the valve and lines can clear bracket protrusions.


9

Thread the included extension rod to the actuator rod that is included with the master cylinder (5" long with 5/16-24 thread). The length of the final assembly should be 11 3/4". It is adjustable so proper play can be made once installed.


10

Your next step is to jack up your Econoline's front end. First make sure the ground is level, then chock both your rear wheels (both sides). Once jacked up, use jack stands. Do not set your emergency brake since this adds tension to the emergency brake bracket. Take every safety precaution you can.

In the following order:
  1. Remove the drivers side wheel.
  2. Remove the belly pan (if you have one).
  3. Remove the sway bar bolts that mount it to the body (if you have one).
  4. Remove the brake lines from the old master cylinder.
  5. Remove the pedal return spring.
  6. Remove the pedal C-clip.
  7. Remove the 2 side master cylinder bolts.
  8. Drop the master cylinder down and slide the pedal assembly out.
  9. Remove the old master cylinder.

11

Clean up the brake pedal pivot rod and slide the included bronze thrust washer over it. Now, move the conversion bracket up and insert the brake pedal pivot rod into the end of it. Attach the included C-clip.

Now bolt the conversion bracket in place. Use the original side mounting bolts.

You may want to establish where the remote reservoirs will be installed at this point. You can then "aim" the master cylinder fluid-in fittings in the right direction.


12

DIAGRAM
Insert the assembled brake actuator rod into the brake master and bolt the heim joint end to the brake pedal using the included grade 8 lock-nut and bolt. You will need to attach the spring return point and new pedal spring during this step.


13
You are now ready to add front and rear brake lines and a brake switch (if needed). This will be custom to your vehicle. Once done, bleed your brake master per the instructions that came with it. You will need to bleed the brakes at the wheels as well.

The Wilwood remote master cylinder kit includes 2) 30" x 3/8" lengths of hose. You should mount the reservoirs in an easily accessible place above the brake master. Make sure the hoses clear all moving or hot objects.

Instruction Sheet (pdf)



Included:
  1. Conversion bracket with bronze pedal bushing and grease fitting
  2. Adjustable actuator rod with self-lubricating heim joint
  3. Bronze brake pedal thrust washer
  4. New brake pedal return spring
  5. New brake pedal retaining C-clip
  6. Grade 8 mounting hardware
Required:
  1. Dual reservoir master cylinder (Wilwood 260-7563)
  2. New brake lines (3/16 tube inverted male flare)
  3. A place to mount the 2 remote reservoirs
  4. A method to attach the brake light switch (see below)
Recommended:
  1. Adjustable proportioning valve, distribution block, and switch (SSBC A0730). Available here, here and elsewhere.

Price:
$325.00    (Wilwood Master Cylinder is not included in kit)
Quantity:




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